Most people don’t replace a mattress because it “breaks”. They replace it because they eventually reach a point where they’re fed up of waking up feeling like they’ve slept on a bag of spanners.

The awkward bit is that mattresses don’t usually fail in a dramatic way. They wear out slowly, often long before they look visibly old. Foam softens. Springs lose tension. Comfort layers flatten. You adapt to it, so it’s easy to miss the gradual decline.

So if you’re asking how long a mattress should last, you’re probably in one of these camps:

• your mattress is getting on a bit
• you’ve started waking up sore and you’re suspicious the mattress is involved
• you’ve slept better in a hotel than you do at home
• you’re trying to work out whether a topper will do the job or whether you’ll just be papering over the cracks

In this guide we’ll cover:

• realistic lifespan by mattress type (foam v springs v hybrid v latex)
• why mattresses actually wear out
• what makes a mattress wear out faster than average
• the difference between a mattress warranty and its real lifespan
• and how to interpret lifespan claims without needing a PhD

The Short Answer (Average Mattress Lifespan)

If you just want the rough numbers upfront:

• Budget foam / basic mattresses: 4–6 years
• Memory foam mattresses: 5–8 years
• Pocket sprung mattresses: 7–10 years
• Hybrid mattresses (springs + foam): 7–10 years
• Latex mattresses: 10–15+ years

Those ranges aren’t made up, but they’re also not gospel. Two people can buy the same type of mattress and get very different lifespan out of it.

Why Mattresses Wear Out (What’s Actually Happening Inside)

A mattress wears out through repeated compression. You lie on it, it compresses. You move, it compresses again. You get out of bed, it rebounds. Repeat that thousands of times a night, for years.

On top of that, you’re adding heat and moisture (yes, I’m afraid so). Humans are warm, slightly damp creatures. Mattresses absorb that over time.

So “wear” usually comes from four things:

1) Foam fatigue (compression + softening)

Foam works because it has structure and spring-back. Over time, it loses that resilience. It becomes slower to rebound and easier to compress. That’s when you start getting body impressions and a “hammock” feeling.

The frustrating part is that foam can look fine on the surface while the support has quietly got worse.

2) Spring fatigue (loss of tension)

Springs are durable, but they still fatigue. They can lose tension and become less supportive. Pocket springs are much better than old-fashioned open coil springs, but the principle is the same: repeated pressure changes the response.

With springs, the comfort layers above the springs often fail first (flattening, lumpiness), but springs themselves can also become less lively over time.

3) Comfort layer compression (the “flatness” problem)

Even if the core is still functioning, the upper comfort layers compress. That can make a mattress feel firmer, thinner, lumpier, or just a bit uncomfortable. Lots of people reach the replacement point because the comfort disappears, not because the mattress is physically collapsing.

4) Heat, moisture and general grot

Mattresses collect moisture, skin cells, dust, and allergens. This is part of why older mattresses can feel warmer and can worsen night-time allergies.

You can mitigate it with protectors and ventilation, but you can’t stop time entirely unfortunately.

How Long Do Memory Foam Mattresses Last?

Typical lifespan: 5–8 years

Memory foam mattresses are popular because they can give consistent all-over support and good pressure relief. They also tend to come with generous trial periods and long warranties, which makes them easier to buy online without visiting a shop and being lectured by a salesperson.

However, memory foam is still foam. And foam is the thing most likely to soften over time.

You’ll usually see memory foam wear in these ways:

• the mattress feels softer than it used to
• you sink in more
• turning over feels harder (the “stuck” feeling)
• you get deeper impressions in the areas where you lie most
• you wake up with lower back stiffness even though nothing else has changed

Heavier people tend to shorten the lifespan because foam is under more load. Side sleepers also tend to compress foam more because their weight is less spread out.

A key detail is that not all memory foam mattresses are equal. Many are mostly made of other foams, with only a thin layer of actual memory foam on top. Higher density foams usually last longer, but brands often don’t make it easy to compare properly. A cynic would say that this is a deliberate ploy.

So the realistic advice is:

If you’re average weight and buy a decent memory foam mattress, expect something like 6–8 years of good performance. If you’re heavier than average, or it’s a cheaper foam build, 5–6 years is not unusual.

How Long Do Pocket Sprung Mattresses Last?

Typical lifespan: 7–10 years

Pocket springs have a good reputation for longevity because the core structure is more durable than foam alone. They’re also more breathable, which helps with temperature and moisture.

But (and it’s a big but) pocket sprung mattresses usually fail because of what’s on top of the springs.

The fillings and comfort layers compress. The top becomes uneven. The mattress can start to feel lumpy or “dippy”, especially if it’s single-sided and you can’t flip it.

There are a few details that influence lifespan a lot:

• spring count and quality (more isn’t always better, but very low counts can be less supportive)
• wire gauge (thicker springs often last longer)
• quality of fillings (natural fibres can be great, but so can well-made synthetics)
• is it flippable? (double-sided mattresses often wear more evenly if you actually flip them)

A decent pocket sprung mattress can last close to 10 years, especially if it’s well-made and cared for. A cheap sprung mattress can wear out sooner than people expect because the comfort layers flatten quickly.

How Long Do Hybrid Mattresses Last?

Typical lifespan: 7–10 years

A hybrid is basically a compromise: springs for support, foam for comfort.

Hybrids are popular partly because they give a more “modern” feel than traditional sprung mattresses, without being pure foam quicksand. They also often come with good home trials.

The usual failure point in a hybrid isn’t the springs. It’s the foam comfort layers.

Over time:

• foam softens or compresses
• the surface feel changes
• you lose pressure relief
• you may start sinking more in the hips

So a hybrid might still look fine and still have springs that technically work, but it can feel noticeably worse after years of use.

In the UK, hybrids are often the best “value vs longevity” option for most people, assuming you buy a decent one.

How Long Do Latex Mattresses Last?

Typical lifespan: 10–15+ years

Latex tends to be the longevity champion.

It’s more resilient than memory foam, rebounds well, and resists sagging. Latex mattresses are also often praised for breathability and durability.

The downsides are that latex mattresses are:

• more expensive
• heavier
• not always easy to find on long home trials compared to the big foam brands

If you’re the type of person who wants to buy something once and then ignore the category for a decade, latex is often the best bet.

Dunlopillo is the market leader in latex mattresses (see our Dunlopillo guide)

What Shortens a Mattress’s Lifespan?

A mattress can have a great spec and still wear out early if conditions are wrong.

Here are the main factors, some of which you can have some control over to help your mattress last longer.

Body weight and number of sleepers

Two people will wear a mattress faster than one (obviously!). Heavier sleepers compress foams and springs more, which speeds up fatigue.

If you’re heavier than average, it doesn’t necessarily mean you need “the firmest mattress on earth”, but you do need something built to cope with the load without sagging.

Sleeping position

Side sleepers put high pressure on shoulders and hips. That tends to compress comfort layers faster.

Back sleepers distribute weight more evenly, which can be gentler on materials. Front sleepers can also be relatively even, but they often need firmer support to avoid lower back arching.

Bed base and slats

This catches people out constantly.

A mattress on a bad base wears out faster.

If your bed frame has huge gaps between slats, you can end up with sagging regardless of mattress quality. Many warranties won’t cover you if your base isn’t suitable. There isn’t a fixed maximum distance between slats but I’ve seen a range mentioned in warranties. Simba Sleep’s warranty says that ‘The slats on any slatted bed frame must be more than 2 inches in width and be no greater than 3 inches apart’

A cheap bendy frame with big gaps can destroy a good mattress surprisingly quickly.

Rotation and flipping (or lack of it)

Some mattresses can be flipped, most modern ones can’t. But most can be rotated.

If you never rotate, you’ll get heavier wear in the usual spots. This is especially true for couples where both people sleep in the same positions for years.

Protectors and hygiene

A protector doesn’t just prevent stains. It reduces moisture exposure and helps with allergens.

If you want longevity, a protector is dull but sensible. Like flossing.

Mattress Warranty vs Real Lifespan (This Confuses Everyone)

This is where a lot of people get confused

You’ll see mattresses advertised with:

• 10 year warranty
• 15 year warranty
• “Forever warranty”
• lifetime guarantees

Which sounds like the mattress will stay comfortable for that long.

It won’t.

A warranty is not a promise that you’ll sleep brilliantly for 10–15 years.

It’s simply a promise that the mattress won’t have a manufacturing fault.

That’s a very different thing.

What a warranty actually covers

Typically, warranties only cover things like:

• broken springs
• major structural failure
• very deep sagging (often 2–3cm or more)
• defects in materials

They usually don’t cover:

• gradual softening
• loss of support
• general wear and tear
• “it feels uncomfortable now”

And that last one is the reason most people replace a mattress.

Very few people wake up one day to find a spring sticking out like a cartoon.

Most simply think:

“This used to feel better.”

That feeling isn’t covered.

So why do some brands offer 15 year or ‘forever’ warranties?

Long warranties look reassuring on a comparison table but it’s also worth acknowledging that there’s an element of marketing involved.

They don’t necessarily mean the mattress will last longer and in many cases the mattress hasn’t actually been tested in real world conditions for that length of time.

Having said that, respected luxury brands like Vispring offer some of the longest warranties whilst cheap and cheerful mattresses often only have a warranty of a year or two.

It’s also worth saying that some brands offer a warranty that is longer than they’ve been trading for. In that circumstance, it’s difficult for them to know exactly how their mattress will perform in many years time – and your warranty will be worthless if they go bust.

In summary, a long warranty is a nice safety net, not a durability guarantee.

A better way to think about it

I tend to treat warranties like insurance.

They are rarely used but are nice to have in place. They are not the reason to buy something.

Instead, focus on:

• good materials
• sensible thickness
• proper support
• realistic lifespan expectations

If it gives you 8–10 comfortable years, that’s actually a solid result.

Anything beyond that is a bonus.

How Do You Know When It’s Time to Replace Your Mattress?

Knowing the average lifespan is useful, but it’s not the whole story.

Some feel tired after five years. Others are still perfectly comfortable after nine or ten or even longer.

So rather than fixating on age alone, it’s more practical to look at how it feels and how you sleep on it.

Most people don’t notice mattress wear because it happens gradually. You adapt. A slightly softer spot here, a bit of stiffness there, and before long you’ve quietly normalised mediocre sleep.

Then you stay in a decent hotel for one night and realise you’ve been mugged off by your own bed for the last three years.

That’s usually the moment people start Googling.

Below are the signs that genuinely matter, along with some simple ways to test things at home without any special equipment.

The Most Reliable Signs Your Mattress Is Past Its Best

Waking up sore or stiff (especially lower back or hips)

This is by far the most common complaint, and usually the most useful clue.

If you feel:

• stiff first thing
• achy in the lower back
• sore around the hips or shoulders
• generally creaky getting out of bed

…yet you feel better after walking around for 20–30 minutes, the mattress is often the culprit.

What’s happening is fairly simple.

As the support layers soften, your heavier parts (hips and midsection) sink slightly too far. That bends your spine out of a neutral position for hours at a time.

It doesn’t sound dramatic, but holding any joint slightly “off” for seven or eight hours every night isn’t ideal. Over weeks and months, it adds up.

This doesn’t mean every back pain problem is mattress-related, obviously. But if the pain is worst in the morning and improves during the day, it’s a strong hint.

A decent mattress should leave you feeling neutral when you wake up, not like you’ve done a light gym session in your sleep.

Visible sagging or permanent dips

If you can see a dip in your mattress without trying very hard, it’s rarely a good sign.

A bit of softening is normal. All materials settle slightly. But obvious sagging means the internal structure has changed permanently.

Once that happens, you’re no longer lying on a flat, supportive surface. You’re effectively sleeping in a shallow trough.

That’s when you get:

• rolling towards the middle
• lower back strain
• uneven pressure on hips and shoulders

At that point, it’s not really a “comfort tweak” problem. It’s structural.

No amount of rotating, flipping, or adding a fancy topper will magically rebuild the support core.

You consistently sleep better somewhere else

This sounds obvious, but if you regularly notice that you sleep better:

• in hotels
• on holiday
• in a guest bed
• or even on a newer spare mattress

…then your body is clearly capable of sleeping well.

Which means your own mattress is probably the weak link.

The surface feels uneven, lumpy or flatter than it used to

This is particularly common with older sprung mattresses.

The springs might still technically work, but the comfort layers above them compress and shift.

Over time you can end up with:

• lumpy patches
• areas that feel thinner
• slightly ridged or uneven surfaces

You might not see anything obvious, but you can feel it when you lie down.

It’s the mattress equivalent of an old sofa where all the stuffing has migrated to the corners.

Not catastrophic, just not very comfortable.

And when you’re spending a third of your life on it, “not very comfortable” gets old quite quickly.

Edges collapsing when you sit

Edge support is one of those things you don’t think about until it disappears.

If you sit on the side of your bed and feel like you’re sliding off or sinking a long way down, the structure around the perimeter has probably weakened. When we’re testing a mattress we call it the custard slice test, as it’s what happens when you bite in and find the filling has slid out the sides.

This often happens before the rest of the mattress feels terrible.

It’s also a small warning sign that the internal components are ageing.

Plus, practically speaking, weaker edges mean less usable sleep space, especially if you share the bed.

You’re overheating more than you used to

Older foam mattresses in particular can start to feel warmer.

As foam ages, it becomes less airy and less responsive. Airflow drops. Heat hangs around longer.

So you might notice:

• waking up sweaty
• kicking the duvet off more often
• feeling hotter than you remember

Obviously, room temperature, bedding and time of year matters too, but if nothing else has changed and your mattress is several years old, it can be part of the picture.

It’s not always dramatic, but it’s a fairly common complaint with ageing foam.

Night-time allergies or congestion

Not the most delightful topic, but it’s worth mentioning.

Mattresses collect:

• dust mites
• skin cells
• sweat
• general household dust

After many years, that builds up.

Some studies have found surprisingly high allergen levels in older mattresses, which isn’t brilliant if you’re prone to asthma, hay fever, or sinus issues.

If you find you’re stuffier at night than during the day, or you wake up sneezing more than usual, it might not just be pollen or the neighbour’s cat.

Sometimes it’s simply that your mattress has been around since the previous prime minister.

A Few Simple At-Home Tests

You don’t need any special kit to get a rough idea of whether your mattress is still doing its job.

A few quick checks can tell you quite a lot.

The straight edge test

Lay something straight across the mattress — a broom handle, a long level, anything similar.

If you can clearly see daylight underneath in the middle, you’ve got sagging.

You don’t need to measure it down to the millimetre. If it’s obvious, it’s already enough to matter.

The hand press test

Press firmly into the mattress and then release.

A healthy foam should rebound fairly quickly.

If it’s slow, sluggish, or leaves a dent for several seconds, the foam is losing resilience.

It’s not scientific, but it’s a decent rough indicator of ageing materials.

The rotation experiment

If your mattress can be rotated, try it.

If it suddenly feels noticeably better for a few weeks, that’s usually a sign the original sleeping areas were worn.

Rotation can buy you a bit of time, but it’s often a temporary fix rather than a permanent solution.

The hotel comparison

If you consistently sleep better on fairly ordinary hotel beds, that’s telling you something.

Hotels don’t use magical mattresses. They just use relatively new ones.

Can You Extend the Life of a Mattress Instead of Replacing It?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no.

If the issue is mainly comfort — for example it feels a bit too firm or slightly flat — a topper can help.

If the issue is support — sagging, dips, back pain — a topper is usually just papering over the cracks.

A simple way to think about it:

• comfort problem → topper might help
• support problem → new mattress

Spending £150–£250 on a topper for a mattress that’s already structurally worn out often ends up being false economy.

Better to put that money towards a replacement.

Age Still Matters (Even If Everything Looks Fine)

Finally, a boring but sensible point.

Even if your mattress doesn’t look terrible, materials degrade gradually.

After 8–10 years, most mattresses simply aren’t performing like they did when new.

You might not notice day-to-day, but when you try a new one, the difference can be surprisingly obvious.

It’s a bit like glasses. You don’t realise how blurry things have got until you put a fresh prescription on.

What To Look For When Replacing Your Mattress (And How To Avoid Buying A Dud)

By this point you’ve probably worked out one of three things:

• your mattress is still fine
• it’s slightly tired but salvageable
• or it’s well past retirement age

If you’re in the third group, the obvious question is what to replace it with.

Unfortunately, this is where things get confusing.

The mattress industry isn’t exactly famous for clarity.

Every model claims to have:

• revolutionary foam
• aerospace technology
• loads of “zones”
• something “orthopaedic”
• or a spring system with a pseudo scientific name

Most of it is marketing noise.

In reality, mattress comfort comes down to a few fairly boring fundamentals:

• support
• pressure relief
• temperature regulation
• durability

Get those right and you’ll sleep well.

Get them wrong and you’ll be back here in five years Googling the same question again.

So rather than chasing buzzwords, it’s more useful to understand what actually affects how long a mattress lasts.

First Decide the Two Things That Actually Matter

Before you even look at brands or reviews, you need to answer two questions.

Everything else flows from these.

How firm should it be for your body?

This is easily the biggest factor in comfort and yet it’s the bit people often leave until last.

The wrong firmness will ruin an expensive mattress just as effectively as a cheap one.

Broadly speaking:

• lighter people → softer
• heavier people → firmer
• side sleepers → softer
• back/front sleepers → firmer

I sometimes think of it like this:

• Give yourself a score from 1 – 3 depending on whether you are lighter than average (1), average weight and build (2) or heavier than average (3).
• Then add on (1) point if you sleep on your side or (3) points if you sleep on your back/front. Add on (2) points if you do a bit of both.
• That will give you a score ranging from 2 – 6.

You can then use this score as a rough guide when you’re looking for a mattress. If you scored:

• 2 = soft mattress
• 3 = soft/medium mattress
• 4 = medium mattress
• 5 = medium/firm mattress
• 6 = firm mattress

This isn’t an exact science, but it’s a good starting point.

The reason for these firmness levels is simply spinal alignment.

If you’re too light for a firm mattress, you perch on top of it and get pressure on shoulders and hips.

If you’re too heavy for a soft mattress, you sink too far and your lower back dips.

Neither is ideal.

What you want is boring but effective: your spine roughly straight when lying on your side, or in a neutral curve when on your back.

Not a hammock, not a plank.

Medium or medium-firm ends up being right for most average adults, which is why so many brands aim for that middle ground.

It’s not exciting, just practical.

Do you prefer springs, foam, or a mix?

There isn’t a single “best” material.

There are just trade-offs.

Anyone claiming one type is universally superior is oversimplifying things.

Pocket springs

These are the traditional choice in the UK.

Thousands of individual springs move independently.

Pros:

• bouncy, responsive feel
• good airflow (cooler)
• often longer lasting
• easier to move around on

Cons:

• can develop dips if comfort layers compress
• heavier
• usually no long home trials

They’re reliable and familiar, which is why most hotels still use them.

See our guide to the best pocket sprung mattresses.

Memory foam

These mould around you and spread pressure evenly.

Pros:

• very consistent support
• good for joints and pressure points
• lighter
• often longer warranties and trial periods
• easier delivery (“bed in a box”)

Cons:

• can feel warm
• slower response (that sinking feeling some people dislike)
• cheaper foam can soften quicker

They suit people who like a “hugging” feel rather than bounce.

See our guide to the best memory foam mattresses.

Hybrids

These combine both.

They usually have springs for support with foam on top for comfort.

Pros:

• good balance of bounce and pressure relief
• cooler than pure foam
• often very comfortable

Cons:

• heavier
• sometimes more expensive
• always one-sided (can’t flip)

For many people, hybrids are the best compromise, which is probably why they’ve become so popular over the last few years.

What Actually Affects How Long a Mattress Lasts?

This is the bit most guides skip.

But it’s arguably the most important if you don’t want to replace it again in five years.

Price alone isn’t the answer.

A £1,200 mattress made with mediocre foam can wear out quicker than a £600 one made properly.

Durability comes down to materials and construction.

Thickness and density matter more than fancy features

As a general rule:

Thicker, denser materials last longer.

Very thin mattresses (say under 18–20cm) simply don’t have much material to absorb wear.

They compress faster.

Likewise, very cheap foam tends to soften sooner.

That’s why many budget mattresses feel great for six months and then mysteriously turn into pancakes. They’ll be fine for a spare room, where they are only used sporadically but may cost you more in the long run if you are using them all the time.

A decent everyday mattress is usually:

• around 22–30cm deep
• reasonably substantial when you lift it
• not suspiciously light

If it feels like you could carry it under one arm like a yoga mat, it probably won’t last ten years.

There are exceptions though. Some Vispring and Tempur mattresses are 21cm deep but they are amongst the highest quality brands around.

Flippable designs tend to last longer

This is a slightly contentious area, but I’ll try and give you the information and you can make your own mind up.

Some people will tell you that old-school mattresses that you can flip over often wear more evenly. This has always been my assumption as you’re using both sides rather than hammering the same surface every night.

Most foam and hybrid mattresses can’t be flipped because the layers are directional. That’s not necessarily bad, but it does mean you’re relying entirely on one side.

However, Bed Advice UK says that it’s a ‘myth’ that ‘Turning Your Mattress Over Will Double Its Lifespan’. It says that ‘modern mattresses often feature one-sided designs that don’t require flipping. Technological advancements in mattress construction, including spring systems and fillings, have made it easier for consumers to avoid the hassle of flipping heavy mattresses.’

In my opinion, if longevity is your top priority and you don’t mind a heavier mattress, a double-sided pocket sprung design still makes a lot of sense.

But do keep in mind that it’s a nuanced debate and that there are plenty of high quality single sided mattresses out there.

How Much Should You Spend?

This is where things get slightly less scientific and more practical.

From years of looking at specs and reviews I would say that, here’s a noticeable jump in quality between:

• £150–£250 → very basic
• £400–£800 → solid mid-range
• £1,200+ → diminishing returns

For most people, that middle band is where you can get a good quality mattress for sensible money.

Good materials, decent support, without paying for luxury branding or posh showrooms.

Is It Worth Trying Before You Buy?

If possible, yes.

But shops aren’t perfect either.

Lying on a mattress for five minutes in a brightly lit showroom while a salesperson hovers nearby isn’t exactly realistic.

That’s why home trials have become popular.

Sleeping on something for 30–200 nights tells you far more than a quick flop in a shop ever will.

Just read the small print:

• is it a full refund or just an exchange?
• do they collect it for free?
• do you need a protector?

Most reputable brands are fairly straightforward now, but it’s worth checking.

Check out our guide to the best mattresses with a trial period

A Simple Buying Strategy

If you want to keep this whole process boring and efficient, here’s a very sensible approach.

Decide your firmness first.

Pick a material type you generally prefer (springs, foam, or hybrid).

Set a realistic budget.

Then shortlist two or three well-reviewed models and stop researching.

At some point, more research just becomes procrastination.

Most decent mid-range mattresses are more similar than different.

Once you’re in the right ballpark, you’re not choosing between “amazing” and “terrible”.

You’re choosing between “good” and “slightly different good”.

Our guide to the 10 best mattresses includes several good ones.

Final Thoughts

Mattresses don’t last forever.

Even the good ones.

If yours is:

• sagging
• uncomfortable
• or quietly ruining your sleep

…replacing it is usually one of the simpler upgrades you can make to daily life.

It’s not glamorous.

But sleeping well every night is surprisingly valuable.

And if you choose something with decent materials and rotate it occasionally, you probably won’t need to think about it again for the best part of a decade.

Which is about as low-maintenance as household purchases get.